With grapes from Serralunga d’Alba, the Pio Cesare 2017 Barolo Ornato shows a richer textured style and more concentrated fruit flavours than all the other Nebbiolo-based wines in this range. Dark cassis and blackberry follow to black liquorice and dry smoke. Those characteristic hints of rusty nail, earth and candied orange peel that are so typical of Serralunga d’Alba are quite evident. The wine shows structure and depth that will help it withstand further ageing in the cellar. (Monica Larner)
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